"Don't bother to pack your bags, or your map. We won't need them where we're goin'. We're goin' where the wind is blowin', not knowin' where we're gonna stay."

Monday, August 22, 2011

Beaches, Romantic Lunches, and the Best Pizza in the World


After saying my 5am goodbyes to Kim, I headed off to Italy! I originally planned to be in Italy by myself for my 2.5 weeks, but my friend (and mortal enemy - I'll get to that in a bit) Kevin saw that I was traveling and we decided to travel together in Italy before he headed off to get his MBA and become a big shot.

Why is he my mortal enemy? In short, because he made me cry over a game. Story time, children. I know Kevin from church basketball leagues we each played in together since I was in high school. His team was always more talented than our team, but we managed to stay with them in a few games. In one of these such games, a playoff game to boot, we had the game won, up five or six points in the final minute. Or so we thought. Missed free throws and a couple of baskets by them lead to Kevin making a three-pointer while getting fouled to beat our team by one point. Cue the tears. I've hated him ever since. All joking aside, Kevin's been one of the really great guys I've met through that basketball league, and I was really happy to be able to spend a couple of weeks with him in Italy catching up.

We met in Rome when and immediately took a train down to Naples for what other than pizza. Naples has the best pizza in the world, so we decided we had to at least stop by for a few hours to try a slice or six. Unlucky for us, we got there on a Sunday, so not much was open, but we were able to find one famous pizza place called Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente, named that because they served President Clinton back in the day. We got the classic margherita, as well as their namesake which was ordered by Bill himself. We were happy we only stayed in Naples for a couple hours for pizza, because the city was pretty gross. There was garbage everywhere and was just kind of a bummer to be in.

Roaming the streets of Naples looking for pizza.

Closed.

First pizza in Naples. So good.



Once we got our pizza fix (for the day), we took a train to Sorrento, where we would be camping out of for the next four days. We decided to stay in Sorrento because firstly, it was a great base to be able to take day trips to the Amalfi coast and Capri and secondly, because it wasn't Naples.

Long travel day for Kev.

Our cabin, or as Kevin would refer to it, mosquito central.


After an okay night of sleep in our cabin, we took a boat ride to the island of Capri, where we spent the day. Capri was really beautiful, and insanely beautiful and touristy. Obviously being in Capri, we had to stop by the blue grotto. It was beautiful, but it was 12 euro for like three minutes in a cave. Google image it and save yourself some cache.


The (expensive) blue lagoon.


On the boat, we met a few backpackers from New Zealand that happened to be staying at our campsite, and spent most of the day with them exploring the city and laying out by the tiny beach. Capri is also the first of many places where Kevin and I had a meal way too romantic for us. This being on the balcony of a tiny restaurantmeant overlooking part of the city. Being in Capri, we had to try the caprese salad, which was very good. That night, and our remaining two three nights, Kevin and I explored downtown Sorrento looking for snacks and gelato.

The beach on Capri.

Shopping, shopping, shopping.

In Capri, must get caprese salad.



Center of Sorrento.


Our second day trip was to Positano, a small town on the Amalfie coast. Again, a really beautiful little town with windy little roads, slightly less crowded than Capri. We laid out by the beach again, eating mini homemade croissant sandwiches (an ode to Kim), before exploring the town for a couple of hours.

More beach time in Positano.


Dinner with the girls: football sized calzones.

Beautiful sunset from Sorrento's port.




Our third and final day trip was to the town of Amalfi itself, my favorite day trip of the three. We took a little tour of Amalfie's very old paper mill, then took a really nice hike into the woods past some lemon fields and gorgeous views of the city below. After the hike, I thought I peed my pants, but don't worry, it was just sweat. In order to cool down, we hiked back down to a small beach in a very tiny town next to (literally five minutes away) Amalfi called and laid out by the beach for a few hours. After a late lunch of pizza/paninin, Kevin and I explored the cathedral, where St. Andrew is buried.


Kevin getting a hands on lesson at the paper mill.

Start of the hike.



More gorgeous views from the hike.


Amalfie cathedral.



With our three day-trips completed, our next stop was up to Rome, but before we got there, we obviously had to stop by Naples again and get some more pizza. This time our goal was the mother of all pizza joints: Da Michele. It's been around forever and is apparently the best pizza in the world according to a lot of pizza experts. Also if you're lady folk, you might recognize it from the book Eay Pray Love. They only serve two types of pizza, margherita and marinara, but boy do they get them right. Really delicious and simple pizzas, and for only four euros each!

"Best pizza in the world." I don't disagree.

I never thought I would like pizza without cheese or meat as much as I did.


As an afternoon-cap, we stopped by another famous pizza place called Di Matteo, but not for pizza. Our NZ friends said we had to try something called frittatina. Listen to this. it's a deep fried ball of mac and cheese filled with ground beef. I'll give you a second to wipe the drool. Yea, it was good.



Heart-stoppingly good.

We boarded our train to Rome fat and happy, a feeling we'd be familiar with for the rest of our time in Italy. Oh yea, and gassy.

Thursday, August 11, 2011

The Adventures of Kim and Pert Part Deux: Madrid


Kim and I took an overnight bus from Barcelona to Madrid and we woke up with bloated feet from not moving the entire night. Seriously, I'd taken a few overnight buses already, but never noticed bloated feet until Madrid. I couldn't even see the bones in my feet anymore and my flip flops barely fit! It was odd and gross. Anyhoo...

We headed straight to our next fancy-ish hotel in Madrid (also a bargain at $50 euro/night for a three star hotel) and immediately took a nap because we didn't get much sleep on the night train. After our early siesta and some weird, fevered dreams, we took the metro into the center of Madrid, Plaza del Sol. We did some window shopping, and then made our way to Plaza Mayor where we shared a Madrid favorite, calamari bocadillo (sandwich). It was tasty, but it was missing something: sauce! (Fast forward one day: we went back to Casa Rua in Plaza Mayor and ordered the same thing, but this time requested bravas sauce which is kind of like a spicy mayo they use on fries. It was super tasty this time. I guarantee you if more places in Spain used sauces on their sandwiches, they'd kill).

Window shopping near Plaza del Sol.

Wearing my bag "pick pocket defense" style in Plaza Mayor.



Bravas sauce made all the difference.




Back to the present. After eating our calamari sandwich, we wandered over to Madrid's uber fancy market: Mercado de San Miguel. It was smaller than the one in Barcelona, but way fancier. Think Metropolitan Market meets Pike Place. There were so many options for us to choose to eat, from tapas to paella to seafood to gelato. Just like with the bravas sauce on the calamari bocadillo, Kim and I spiced up a few more dishes at the market with our creativity. One such example is when we ordered some seafood paella and decided that adding chicken tandoori skewers was necessary. Mixing cultures never tasted this good.


Does combining different prepared foods count as cooking? Yes.

After our snackage and wandering a bit more, we took a mini-tour of madrid and its architecture. I noticed one lady on our tour had a Sounders hat on, so I asked if she was from Seattle. She was, as well as her husband and two daughters, and we eventually discovered that we live down the street from each other. So crazy. On top of that, we also found out that Kert used to counsel the younger daughter in summer camp. Even with me looking like hobo the clown, the family invited Kert and I over to hang out. Good people.



Some of the beautiful buildings we passed on our walking tour.


Our tour ended right at one of the Museums we wanted to visit: the Prado. Supposedly, it has the greatest collection of art in Europe...and it was free. So Kim and I went and randomly bumped into our friend Kamel, whom we met in Barcelona, waiting in line for the Prado as well. Just so you know that I actually looked around the museum, my favorite painting was Goya's painting of Saturn eating one of his children. Creepy and awesome.

What did I tell you? Creepy and awesome.

Our buddy, Kamel!

The next day, after Kim and I returned to the aforementioned calamari sandwich place with bravas sauce on our mind, we went to a famous churro place called San Gines. Javier Bardem has been there, so you know it's the real deal. Once we finished our churros with chocolate, we jetted to Retiro park, a beautiful and sprawling park with a lake in the middle. We took a little afternoon siesta there then headed over to another awesome (and free!) museum: The Reina Sofia contemporary art museum. Again, to convince you that I actually paid attention to something, I enjoyed Dali's stuff. Yup, that's a real guy.


Definitely better portion control than my first experience in Granada.

Beautiful Retiro Park.



Some interesting Japanese art at the Reina Sofia.

Interesting indeed.

Proof!


Of course, we ended our time together with another gelato run and some 30 Rock on my netbook. My 11 days with Kim were a blast and I was really sad to see her go. She's definitely the best, and if you don't agree, I'll fight you...as long as you're behind a gate.

Some tasty bruschetta for our last meal in Madrid...

along with some manhole sized personal pizzas.

Before heading to Italy, I Macgyver'd my backpack into working condition.